” ends of the earth “

Sitting in airport Abu Dhabi traveling to  ” End of the Earth ” writhing this blog with help of Lord Huron And Mary Gaunt enjoy put your volume up. And stay tuned.

 

 

 

The fascination Africa has always held for those who have visited her shores has hitherto been the fascination of the mistress, never of the wife.

She held out no lure, for she was no courtesan. A man came to her in his eager youth asking, praying that she would give him that which should make all life good; and she trusted and opened her arms.

What she had to give she gave freely, generously; there was no stint, no lack. and he took. Her charm he counted as a matter of course, her tenderness was his due, her passion his pleasure; but the fascination he barely admitted could not keep him.

Though she had given all, she had no rights and, when other desires called, he left her, left her with words of pity that were an injury, of regret that were an insult.

But all this is changing.

Africa holds. The man who has known Africa longs for her.

In the sordid city streets he remembers the nights and loneliness of her forests, by the rippling brook he remembers the wide rivers rushing tumultuous from the lakes, in the night when on the roof the rain is plashing drearily, he remembers the mellow tropical nights, the sky of velvet far away, the stars like points of gold, the warm moonlight that, with its deeper shadows, made a fairer world.

Even the languor and the heat he longs for, the white surf on the yellow sand of the beaches, the thick jungle growth densely matted, rankly luxuriant, pulsating with the irrepressible life of the tropics.

All other places are tame

Mary Gaunt  sierra leone 1910

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Memories 6 “my Stone town visit in 2008”

For now 29 July 2016 I republish my first blog about Stone town full of feelings and expectations but as Buddhism teach us do not put energy in expectations well I learned I can say the hard way Zanzibar was a great teacher.

 

Septembre 2008 My friends appear fresh in shorts with big camera swing bags at breakfast. Proudly carried on their newly acquired camera bags I bring them from the Netherlands  because in the sandbox Tete in Mozambique is no modern camera for sale. The men walk with Model 3 which is particularly a too large model for myself I bought a small model do not like lugging. During the coffee we discuss what is better canon or Nikon camera’s everyone knows that its Nikon. We decide to leave our lovely hotel and looking for something more in the heart of this extraordinary city. We find coco du mare a very very basic hotel with the possibility of a large floor with three sleeping options this will be our home base for the time being. Move quickly settled and set off without  our camera just walk and experience and natural smell. We found a pretty good place right in the labyrinth where we can drink coffee that pleases us, with waffle. The feeling is double Arabian atmosphere obviously present but also African, many spices are fragrant for sale in the many small shops and street vendors.  ( Who could think that one year later this man makes my wedding suit behind the same machine.) 

 

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Which do their best to sell their products. But my friends are nearby and have experience with this marketing method, live their entire lives in Africa, we decided to stay the first days together  what is now very positive working out for me. We walk around a picture of paradise and fall of one in the other surprise, we charge what the colors and shapes.

 

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Women most veiled and in black but also in multicolored beautiful dresses contain some with painted hands and feet what intensify my sense of this charm. I twist my neck for all these beautiful moving shapes what a feast. It gets dark early here in Africa we are at sandbank where cargo ferry docks pandemonium of screaming sweaty African men, some broken in worn torn clothes. Who all want to load at once aboard their goods while the other half is still trying to get their load of the trucks. Lots of noise and air but no hits so very fun to watch, with a cool kilimanjaro the local beer in your hand.

 

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At dinnertime, we have appetite for curry it takes us to “the silk route” wonderful Indian restaurant located on the top floor of a stately building near the landing place of the ferry, where we men still hear screaming. A divine beauty says I am maria your host for tonight. With a very positive expectation of the food that is going to be served by this Maria this day can not go wrong. My friends James and Anthony opened the evening with a Kamasutra and love’s nest probably inspired by Mary’s beauty, cocktails which once appear on the table as a peeled fruit basket full of color, I there to open the evening with mango yogurt drink that Indian cuisine so famous makes. We follow as children the food advice from our host without contradicting all three a cream of tomato curry with chicken, one of the best bottles of wine, the best was still there the restaurant was only open for three days. That may be true according to Anthony, he just has a Kamasutra and no love’s nest so the wrong drink. The hastily rushed maria solves the problem, tomorrow is the free cocktail and then we serve the benefit to the right person, we certainly want to see Maria again tomorrow so that’s agreed. I try to execute a photo shoot on her day what succeeds, my friends are very happy with what my intention was not egoism with photo shoots is a known phenomenon among photographers. The way back through dark Zanzibar full of strange light and shadows fall is beautiful. Another cup of chai in the room and the first Zanzibar day was beautiful.

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Memories 5 ” unbelievable extremities “

There is for many days a light unrest in the camp a turmoil going tonight to climax Saturday 20 Oct 2007  the South African Springboks against the rest of the world and the opponent of the rest of world is England it will happen of the city of Paris. John (an old bush bullet) my assistant manager now nervous South African, restless he walks like a Springbok around the retreat tense he lives toward the match intensely. The neighbors croc valley are the hosts for the whole neighborhood from all sides the come and sometimes in green faces or shirts becoming Springbok green fans and enter their game. Before Jhon and I leave to the croc valley here a picture of mister Adamsson our bartender for the evening Adamsson that’s his first name, the last name is difficult to spell and write he treat himself on a new ultra-modern Zambian hairstyle ” potato cut ” to be custom fresh and he is extremely proud whit it the same prudishness of whom I see my dutch friends seldom expose.

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The neighbor croc valley has worked out his host role big, with a grand screen and lots Mosi, he also comes from South Africa and there arise soon two camps with the blanks filled up between the two rivals with lovely ladies so creates a mix of enjoys ooooos and aaaaas.

 

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After the first half of 40 minutes, there is nothing decided on the playing field so well that many people just uncork a new bottle. The African night, a game I can not quite follow, but there is enough to photograph also put my emotive experience on a high setting. Also, friend and top game driver Godfried is a member of the party .

 

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In the second 40-minute, the Springboks win the match and the losers shake hands with beaming Afrikaners what makes all Zambians are now the winners of the game and world champion. The party started dancing kissing and enjoyment with the smell of sweet profit John fills with joy and drinks what makes him a beautiful person.

 

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After several beautiful ladies talked into to a portrait made by me sometime next week make me also leave late to the party John yes I know an intense human goes tomorrow in the early morning to the church for the service I’m going with him for the pictures. We leave very early morning after a short night of two hours to a school where the church is held, it’s Sunday everyone is quite busy even crowded streets people in their Sunday clothes nicely ironed cycling walking or sitting somewhere waiting for nothing. We drive too far and see and after a few minutes gravel highway a young male hitchhiker normally we take no one would take too much time with it to play a bus driver but now I see a guy that’s been with me many times to ask for work. I speak to John it’s Sunday we go to church so we pick him up, he wants to go to the airport 45 minutes drive I tell him he will be at a church much closer he does not understand my question he laughs and says ok and go with us to the church. After seeing nobody at the beginning time nowhere we are still a dirt road were finally find the church the are empty classrooms one with an open door John stops the car. I walk into a school building with the door open and come closer to a room where someone in Zambian English sings beautiful about the Lord,

 

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in a pretty divine ambience I met a young woman who looks at me with empty eyes “I lost the light in my eyes,” she says I answer, I am convinced there is still very much in your soul. I tell her what I’m doing and ask her about the pastor he comes she says, and whether I should photograph her she nods and starts again a gospel. What do I enjoying this moment it is finding a place in my soul so that I will never forget this. Slowly the schoolroom dripping full a mother and baby

 

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another group of children which again caring siblings a feast for photographers eyes. During the service, the pastor invite us and mention brother John and me as newcomers and translates us into the local dialect. The service lasts for some very long, I would never leave here.

 

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the pastor tells me that I can do what I want to walk around what a treat this is for me just as much as I enjoy the being in the park I again love photography.

 

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After the service, we take a car full of happy singing church visitors to Mfuwe it is after all Sunday our lifter look with different eyes to the world after his unexpected Sunday service.

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Memories 4 ” Stange one’s no guests “

Sometimes you feel they coming because they can walk past you and you do not hear them you smell ” them ” though. They come with a group or alone and remain days suspended some normal life here and now they disturb seriously the camp.

 

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There are real guests who have to eat and come out of their houses to the restaurant for a drink, or the ones sleeping in a tent and go to the toilet they see the elephants and realize to be careful. In the case of those who sleep in a tent seeing large feet with socks big feet they have you can not mention the elegant walkers of elephants, so very close walk past their tent so silently.

 

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Therefore, even at night, real guests do not dare to leave their tent to go to the toilet even when the watchman ensures them that everything goes well and the whole thing is safe. If the on none guest get something for what they can to destroy let’s say a fence they will bring that to pieces those crazy strange on none.

 

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I notice that I am the first who lose fear and move myself freely as a consummate African well the real Africans are terrified of wild animals and remain very much in the background. The day is ending with a braai as its served in South African for sure with many Mosi.

 

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memories 3 ” my first night drive “

A night drive in the South Luangwa National Park starts at 16:00 in the afternoon with a cup of tea with cake at the restaurant. The tension starts about what is to come, will be enhanced by our “driver” Godfried who lives in the vicinity of track and trail and regularly visits the bar for a Mosi local beer, where he is a big fan of giving him his big stomach. Godfried also owns Mfuwe only nightclub mister frog I soon you’ll tell you all about this. Godfried he know stories about every tree in the park what and where the lions elephants cheetah do, where everyone lives, and of course, there are tales least that you experience as seemed it can not be that dangerous stuff like that just in the black of night the wild animals are so close they the walk so close that you can smell them. We 7 people 4 guests including a journalist from one of the Netherlands wild lifestyle magazines a spotter with big light a driver and me. A spotter is someone who is sitting in the front of the car with a large spot to spot as the game and gives the driver directions.
We must be taking good attention for the little cheeky monkeys at the park entrance just after the bridge over the river Luangwa they steal everything that’s not nailed down so I pay close attention to my camera I already ready to connect the monopod tripod for an attachment shoot. We follow a leopard that Godfried spotted with the naked eye and me with my 300mm telephoto lens can see a beautiful animal in its wild setting up close and photograph that is what we are dealing and of course one of the highlights for guests of the lodge. In nature about anything wildly driving through woodlands a great experience, it feels like we are hunting we are in some way, of course doing that’s on a photo safari in a wild shaking and growling car continues the hunt itself.  To keep balance with my legs tight on the front seat hoping on the support of the driver, the Land Rover is completely open everything is cut away to experience the feeling of freedom, which means that anyone I mean wild very close animals can access without problems. But that will not be the case, I think Gottfried talks about everything he sees what makes the tour is very educational. It gets dark early in Zambia through 17.00 PM as we hint we park in the Land Rover the driver a nice view beside us a herd of elephants very close, and a big bull who have just come to tell this is far enough and he comes very close to the car we stall but soon and we dripping into reverse again

 

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The hunt continues and in the dark becomes more exciting we find quickly a leopard a beautiful one he walks very close I think he hear my fast heart beats gladly he did not.

 

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A group of lionesses with cubs they clog quickly but run very close beside me oh what this is great fun.

 

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The photo below is the most dangerous  “kitten”  I found here on the side of the road and does not want to let me go but more of this in my next blog.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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memories 2″ my first week in the lodge “

September 26 2007 It’s Sunday afternoon 14:23 I am sitting in a corner of the bar to write this blog it is very hot ± 36 degree celsius, I think, there it is silence in the lodge the guests have a drive in the park and have a brunch tea with cake there and to watch the animals and for sure enjoy. The skype contact home fails the power is more than four hours not delivered thus begin to defrost the freezers. I threw  the last lumps of ice blocks from the bar cooler in my glass with water. Drinking water in this temp is important my short experience this week it’s often hot here. I doing well with my rhythm adjusting the temp succeed well I grease nothing here and do not go too much in the sun. I become a bartender for two new guests at the campsite coming from south Africa they have a transit stay few days and are now with their drink in the pool which is now the place to be. My daily routine here is normal at 6.00 am standing here under the water of my lovely rain shower I have a house girl who sees to it that my clothes become washed and my shirts ironed, beautiful with an ironing crease on my stomach starts the day at 6:30. I collect the staff for a short briefing the auto mechanic who keep the Toyota’s four-wheel drives in top condition, the carpenters who provide the maintenance of the buildings and now cutting a tree who half disappeared in last February with the flood, to cut a fallen tree in small pieces in the river from a small boat is not easy because they are surrounded by crocodiles and hippo’s with also the possibility of a snake that lives in the bleached branches, well there is one who does not want to leave his hometown the branches and make a bite move to the staff what go’s just wrong by a not afraid employees.

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memories 1 ” first time in the park “

At 05.00 pm is my alarm nice cold water in my shower lovely after a hot night at 05:30 I step in at the front desk next to my house lights up the track and trail river camp no elephants like yesterday that move in the morning as if they practicing deep concentration tai chi gong in there slowly walk. In very warm red light of morning, we drive his jeep to the bridge over the river that separates the park from the “normal” world.

 

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But where the inhabitants, the animals do not respect this border regularly I see during a quiet moment big elephants slowly enter the shore walk slowly down and really controlled wading to the midst of the river and with the sunset come along very impressive. But now we are at the gate we are too early but allowed enter me and James a very talented photographer from Mozambique of the old school which I believe I belong also.

 

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We understand each other and that’s fine if you together on a photoshoot he takes me to a place stillness of time and light, we have last night talked about the stillness as Edgar Tholle calls it  well I’m now in the middle of very very impressive world we step out of the car and walk to the water of a small lake well formed by nature with very nice big trees hanging challenging in the reflective water. It is like enjoying the ancient dutch photographer Paul HUF who taught me by pressing the shutter the world you see belong now forever to you. That feels like priceless wealth that moments like this we can look back to and remember the feel of that shutter sound moment.

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New Ways and old memory’s

After 8 years, it’s time for new ways as we see newly possibilities for ours put on hold ideas all those years. You can aspect newly inspired projects grown after long nourishment with talented local artists in different fields in several locations in beautiful Africa. It feels like we enter a new chapter in our life, even our career. But first, we want to share with you where it all started for me in the Netherlands 9 years ago, leaving my family my friends my home my studio, left it all. The next months we will update time with more old memories.

Old memories one.

The road of life takes me where I want to be

September 1, 2007, through beautiful light message ( my blog at that moment )

The journey begins now, and I share it with you readers of my blog. It feels that the opportunity is now tangible present to share my experience of what I feel, hear, smell, and that is something I want to bring to you in words or through my camera. As my old teacher, Paul HUF taught me, by pressing your camera shutter that part of the world you see through your camera viewfinder for the eternity will be yours. We, you readers, and I will travel this safari together.

Actually, I now spent the first 25 hours in Africa 

September 6, 2007, by beautiful light message

Actually, I now writing this I spent my first 25 hours in Africa, even it was on a plane of Ethiopian airways. Because on the way to the river camp in Zambia I have to kill several hours on different airports, Addis Ababa airport before the next boarding in Harare to a plane to Lusaka and then a small plane to Mfuwe.

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update of the last blog ” I AM NOT MAD AFTER ALL “

First update the last PS. item of the last blog, The new election bring as I heard only 500 voters to give their mark around one million stayed home. The ruling party sworn in their new president 3 days later as they got 91% they say with music, dancing woman and straight looking military, all in the big stadium without international appearance of ambassadors or statesmen.  How it goes on, nobody knows the zanzibarie are strong until now no demonstrations nobody in the hospital but also no democracy. The first action on the opposing party to open an official case in the international court located in The Hague, Holland of destroying the democratic process in Zanzibar.

I read a very interesting statement of a famous Dutch photographer Anton Corbijn, who I met when it all started many years ago, first his statement:

already pass the threshold of realism in that sense. The blurriness and the grain that I use, for me, is close to life. I find things that are very static and very sharp and very well-lit and all that is not how I experience life.” a big recognition there, his whole TIME interview here.

I understand his work, his style as we are the same age and from the same time and the same place, we met waiting for our developed films in the place to be for photographers that time in Holland CapiLux Vak.

A portrait of Anton made by another famous photographer Stefan van Fletteren, I admire deeply as this is a photography blog here his work.

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I traveled to closed Cuba (it took me more than a year to come in) that time for more than a month and arrange a new year opening of my work in CapiLux Vak as an experienced dark room creative I found a way to print black and white, bleach it toned it bleach it again an toned it again. The results phenomenal here one of the last in my files it’s a scan of a print had a big crash of backup equipment Africa climate is bad for storage gear. The picture is made in Havana in the training facility of the Olympian champs that time I waited 3 hours for approval to go into, I made it with my Leica M6 tri x 35mm.

TBE CUBA ONE

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Looking at life and light no camera WHY! Am I sick! Going mad!

That’s what I have done lately, more to say for the last 6 or 7 months. Yes, loved it, really love it, sitting on one of the Baraza’s (stone benches in front of the Stone town houses).  For me the best way to look at life, the light fall on the face or wall or both, the story the people.  All things what Brandon Stanton also photographed here his site  if you dont know it, see it, it’s great. I do not have the motivation the use the finger on my camera and take the result home anymore, or even take my nikon camera friend with me. WHY! ! Am I sick! Going mad!  Photography is my passion as long as I can remember, people buy my work and are extremely excited about it, they carry the box with the safe packed pictures carefully as a treasure home to where they live, some of them have to fly for more than 20 hours.

Where is the deeply intense love for photography gone as I see so beautifully exposed here  on Ted Vieira’s you tube, A quote of his blog, I decided to go down to a local camera shop, B&C Camera here in Vegas. Amazingly, they had three X-Pro2s in stock. Long story short, the camera sat beside me on the way back home that afternoon.  I do not live in Vegas as Ted  but IF, I would invite him to spend photography talk time and drink a cappuccino together.

I love photography, I get inspired by beautiful photography, used the energy of it in my professional work in the time I had a studio in Europe my models came with magazines full of work they admired, for example, see this here Herb Ritts one of the few photographers I would love to own work from. I have not his talent that’s ok with me, but I lost that energy that passion, I must be mind sick.

Yes, my camera is old if you read this blog before you know I try to fall in love or at least try to find a friend to carry with on my life path, is the problem NEW GEAR, I follow site’s of people who put their hands on camera’s and write about that or put their views on You Tubes, until now no spark of interest maybe that is not quite the truth, there is a rumor going round that old friend Leica I owned an M6 make a street version of THIS..

blog march leica

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